Liyelaa Jehun, as it is known in Dhivehi, is the vibrant lacquer work from the Maldives. It is said that the craft was introduced to Maldives by the Chinese, with whom they had trade connections. While there aren’t any historical records of this, the archaeological and heritage sites showcase early Maldivian workmanship. Coralstone mosques, a significant cultural heritage site of the country, showcase exquisite examples of lacquer work on its pillars and coffered ceilings. These heavily lacquered interiors present a beautiful example of form embracing function. You see, lacquer serves as a protective layer over wood, shielding it from heat and dampness, thus preventing it from deteriorating. According to historians, lacquer work has been found in utensils and also furniture. The craft has stood the test of time, having been passed down from generation to generation for at least 400 years. Over the years, the production of the craft has dwindled, but communities in Thulhaadhoo in Baa Atoll have kept the craft alive.
The craft involves two main processes—Liyun, the sculpting of the wooden piece and Laa Jehun, the application of lacquer on the piece. Laa, lacquer as known in Dhivehi, is imported from India and other neighbourhood countries as lacquer trees are not native to the Maldives. Stuck on a stick, the laa is melted over fire, scraped off onto a flat surface for the next stage of processing.
Once the pigment is added, the laa is folded and beaten to achieve a uniform hue. The traditional colours used in the craft are Yellow, achieved through a traditional medicine called fashurisseyo, Red, made with a substance known as uguli, and Black, created by heating a ceramic tile with an oil lamp and collecting the black tar thus formed. Gold and silver dust is also used in the pigment for a lustrous finish. In recent years, artisans have been adopting oil based pigments for a wider colour range.
Once cooled, this taffy-like lacquer is rolled flat, stretched thin and cut into strips for application. The most common type of wood used for lacquer work is Funa, also known as Alexander Laurel wood. The wood is mounted on a spinning stand known as dhigu haru or bomakandhu haru to be sculpted. The handheld sculpting tools are uniquely designed to aid the making.
The craftsperson applies the lacquer in layers over the spinning wooden base with a tool called Ihaa Gondi. The layers are applied in line with their vision for the design, with yellow being the first. As the layers go on, they’re polished with dried banana or coconut palm leaves.
The beautiful floral motifs seen on the products are hand etched, with the designs being passed down in the family, and it is delightfully reminiscent of my shaky childhood experiments with oil pastels. The inherited love for the craft and culture is reflected in the intricate freehand etching.
As in most crafts, the families practicing lacquer work have greatly diminished in number, especially with the traditional tools and techniques. Incredibly, this craft has seen a revival through tourists (and potential ones like me). Along with the traditional products, the craft families in Thulhaadhoo have expanded their product portfolio to contemporarily relevant products like pens and pen holders. Making my notes, signing my cheques (eek revealed my age), and living my hottest it girl life while supporting small businesses, is there a better way to be?!
The Maldivian government has been actively promoting and supporting Liyelaa Jehun through entities like the Department of Heritage and the ICH-CAP, aiming to preserve it. In a beautiful initiative, Maldives Correctional Services are running traditional lacquer work and Kasabu Weaving workshops at Maafushi Prison. These workshops train prison officers and civil staff who then pass on the knowledge and skills to the inmates- a nod to the knowledge sharing that is key to Liyelaa Jehun.
Craft speaks of community- community that holds strong through time, space, and financial constraints. And this is what I, the ever-dreaming tourist, would seek, following the trail of colourful lacquerware through the streets of Maldives.
